HOW TO PLANT
Trees are like children:
you get out of them what you put into them. The more you can help with water,
fertilizer and good conditions, the faster they will grow and the sooner they
will come into production. New plants haven't developed enough feeder roots or storage roots to find and store the water they need to survive, so you must water new plants. Water with intelligence, not just on a rigid schedule. Place your finger in the soil above the plant's roots each day. If the soils is dry, water. It the soil is not dry then do not. The roots of a tree need oxygen, and too much water deprives them of that. Harming a plant's roots when it is young can negatively affect the plant for the rest of its life.
Your planting site selection
should be well-drained, non-low lying area, sandy loam soils with a pH
between 5.0-7.0. Full sun is required for nut production minimum of 6
hours of full sun. Prepare the area by removing any weeds prior to
planting. This step is often overlooked but is absolutely critical to
any successful planting. Weeds and grass steal light, water and
nutrients from your trees. We recommend weed mats.
Dig the hole twice as wide
as the pot but no deeper than the root-ball. Do not add amendments to the soil such as mulch or
organic matter, this acts like a sponge and increases root rot and robs the
trees of nitrogen from the fertilizer (microbes breaking down the organic
matter use nitrogen in the process).
If planting in heavy clay soils, break up
the ground under and around the hole, so that the tree is not planted in a bath
tub. Roots need oxygen to be able to breathe.
remove the tree from the pot keeping the soil around the roots intact.
It helps to tap the outside of the container to loosen the edge. Do not
yank the tree out of the container as this can separate the roots from
the tree. If the
roots are curled or wrapped up inside the pot, spread them out or cut
severely curled roots. This will promote new root growth.
Remove the pot stake that came with the tree. If the tree appears stable staking is not needed. If using Grow Tubes then staking the tree is not necessary.
If staking is necessary, hold the trunk with one hand to find the
height at which the unsupported top can stand up on its own and will
spring back to a vertical position if lightly flexed. Allow trees a
slight amount of flex rather than holding them rigidly in place. Tree
straps should be made of material that will not injure the tree.
Remove any ties, tags and labels from trees to prevent girdling trunks and branches.
the tree at the same height they were grown in the pot, not deeper.
Bare root trees will have a noticeable color difference between the
roots and the trunk. Plant at the depth of this color difference.
fill in the planting hole with the native soil. Set the tree in the
middle of the hole. Avoid planting the tree too deep. Using some soil,
secure the tree in a straight position,then fill the native soil and firming the soil around the lower roots making sure there are no air pockets. Keep back-filling until the soil is just above the root collar.
a water-holding basin around the hole and water the trees in thoroughly
at planting. Remove the berm
at the end of the second growing season. Water slowly at the drip-line.
Water in thoroughly, making sure there are no air pockets around the
roots. Air pockets prevent roots from growing into the soil around it.
WATERING NEW TREES
Water is the single most
important factor for tree survival. If
the year you plant is like the severe drought experienced by the Midwest
several summers ago, if you do not water your trees they will die. The truth is that many trees die from too little or too much water during the first few months after planting.
Trees are likely to get too little water in well-drained soil
and too much in soil that is poorly drained.
We recommend for best success to supplemental water your newly planted trees for the first two years.
Newly planted trees
planted in the spring should be watered regularly (2-4x/week) for the first year especially if rains are infrequent. Water thoroughly but do not
over-water; the soil should dry down slightly between watering. Irrigation from
lawn sprinklers is generally not sufficient until the plants are well
established. This is the most critical step in the establishment of your new
If you plant in the fall,
water in at planting, and then 1x/week until they lose their leaves and go
dormant with the onset of winter. Resume watering after leaf out in the spring.
Make sure water is applied to the original rootball. Adjust water according to soil type, temperature, rainfall, and other irrigation.
Normally the East receives
rainfall from frontal rains during the spring and fall, and rain storms and
tropical storms in the summer. However, rainfall is not sufficient for
the needs of your trees, especially in sandy soils. There are often dry periods
during the fall and spring when it will not rain for weeks, which can hurt tree
growth, flowering or fruit production.
Despite seasonal rains,
watering is very important, especially during the year after planting. If
possible, drip irrigation systems are the most water efficient and should be
installed if at possible to insure survival and healthy growth. These are inexpensive,
easy to install, and available at most home-improvement or landscape supply
stores. They are insurance for your planting.
However, most food plots
do not have access to wells for irrigation. In this case it is very
important to haul water to the trees, such as with a tank mounted on your ATV
or truck. Tanks are inexpensive and
available at most farm supply stores in varying sizes. A 5 gallon bucket with a
1/32” hole drilled just above the bottom can be filled from the tank, and will
also catch rain.
In addition, we highly
recommend the use of Grow Tubes, which will recycle the transpiration moisture
given off of the leaves at night, and re-waters the tree this way, so you don't
have to take water to the trees as much.
Do not fertilize at planting
Fertilizers can burn the tender roots of young trees before they
become established. When planting bareroot trees or 1 yr old potted trees we
recommend waiting to fertilize them after one year of being planted.
For two year old or older trees we recommend waiting at least two
months after planting then fertilize with a time-released fertilizer
such as Scotts Osmocote or Espoma Holly Tone Organic Fertilizer. After
applying the fertilizer make sure you water your trees for absorption.
Your local extension service
will make recommendations along with the soil test. Strong rains can also leach
away much of the Nitrogen, which is highly soluable. Nitrogen is a key element
required for plant growth.
It is important to provide
a balanced fertilizer such as Scotts Osmocote time
release with minor
elements or Espoma Holly Tone Organic Fertilizer recommend amount per
Minors are very important because if they are not available in certain
as they can be a limiting factor for plant growth. We recommend using
Scotts Osmocote for younger trees Indoor/Outdoor (19-6-12) or Espoma
Holly Tone Organic Fertilizer recommend amount per directions.
the fertilizer evenly under the entire canopy of the tree avoiding a
5-inch area around the trunk. Mix in top 1-3 " of soil, then water in.
For mature trees we recommend using Scotts Osmocote Vegetable/Flower
(14-14-14) or Espoma Holly tone Organic Fertilizer recommended amount per directions.
the trees are established, fertilize in early spring (Mar-April) when
growth begins and again in early June with the start of summer rains.
Do not fertilize in the fall, which can promote late season tender
growth that can be damaged by early frosts.
best time to fertilize fruit trees is during the growing season,
starting in early spring (after bud break) and finishing by July.
Why we do not recommend fertilizing in the Fall?
Fertilizing too late in the season can cause trees to grow when they should be shutting down for the winter. This tender new growth, when pushed too late in the season is also more susceptible to winter injury.
Soil's acidity or alkalinity
is determined by pH. The best range for growing most fruit and flowering
trees is between 5.0 and 7.0. Soils in much of the South fall within this
range. Soils in pine woods are often lower (4.0-5.0) , and need to be
raised by the application of lime or dolomite (see your County Agent for a
soil test and recommended rates). Other areas (such as Texas) have
soils with pH>7, which will need to be acidified or lowered by the
application of nitrogen sulfate or other sulfur-based fertilizers.
It is important to keep grass
and weeds from competing with young trees - they are the biggest competitor for
young trees and steal water and fertilizer from the new plantings. Try to keep
a 2-3' circle clear of weeds from the base of the trunk. Mulch moderates soil temperature extremes and helps moisture retention as well as keeps weed growth down.
recommend Grow Tubes, because you can spray Roundup or other herbicides close
to the tree without hitting the stem. If you do not use Grow Tubes, be
very careful with herbicide, especially on young trees, because they can absorb
it directly through the bark. It only takes a few drops to kill the tree;
so apply only when there is no wind, use a colored dye mixed in the herbicide
so you can see it being applied and protect the trunk with a shield or hood on
the fertilizer wand.
Late spring freezes are a
problem in northern locations, especially after the plants have leafed
out. If your trees have already started to grow and you expect a late
freeze, then you should make every effort to protect them, such as using Grow
Tubes and other protective measures.Some areas even in Zone 5 can have killing frosts as late as Memorial
For fruit trees such as apples
or pears that leaf out early in the spring, painting the trunks with white
latex paint reflects heat and slows down the sap flow and potential freeze
damage from trees starting to push too soon after a warm winter afternoon.
Most plants including
chestnuts, apples, pears, oaks, blueberries and some grapes need more than one
variety to cross-pollinate and bear fruit. We will make sure that you receive
more than one variety when you order 2 or more of these types of trees.Plant no farther than 50’ apart for best
Pruning is usually necessary
only in the first several years to shape the tree to its appropriate form –
central leader, modified leader or open-vase (see pictures). Most nut trees
grow naturally with a straight trunk (central leader) with only a little
pruning required. Light annual pruning of dead wood or an out-of-place
branch helps older trees by rejuvenating growth and promoting better fruit
Some trees may require
annual pruning to produce the best fruit. With peaches, the top is cut at
planting to open up the center of the tree for light to get in for fruit
ripening. The branches grow out in a vase shape. New growth is cut back each
winter, to create a better crop with larger sized fruit. Fruit-thinning
may be necessary if the crop load is too high.
blackberries are pruned back after fruit harvest to grow vegetative shoots over
the summer that will bear next year’s fruit. Grape vines are pruned back to
main fruiting limbs during the winter to promote optimum production the next
Many gardeners are afraid
to prune, but you should not be. Learning to do a little pruning will greatly
benefit your trees and increase their productivity.
Open vase pruning in peaches Central leader pruning in oaks
have relatively few pests and require spraying only for Chestnut Weevil. Grasshoppers can be a problem in orchard
establishment but can be controlled by keeping the orchard floor mowed – they
like old field situations.
Beetles can be a severe problem in certain areas. Click HERE for USDA recommendations on
Chestnut Gall Wasp – introduced by accident on
budwood brought in illegally from China, this small wasp lays its egg in the
growing shoots of the tree, causing a red colored gall to form and contorts the
growth of the shoots. It can
dramatically affection nut production. However, there is a predator wasp of the
native Oak Gall Wasp that also preys on Chestnut Gall Wasp, and the population
rise in Chestnut Gall Wasp usually triggers a rise in the predator wasp, and eventually
the Chestnut Gall Wasp population declines and gets back into ecological
balance. For more information click HERE.
best prevention is to never buy trees from nurseries that are in Gall Wasp
territory (essentially all of the eastern U.S. except Florida). You cannot tell if budwood or trees are
infected because the larvae are microscopic and not visible to the eye.
Chestnut Weevil –
this pest is spread throughout
much of the eastern U.S. It is a small
insect that lays its egg in the forming nuts on the tree, resulting in a
inside the nut. The nuts fall to the
ground, the worms crawl out of the nut and burrow underground, emerging
next summer as adults to repeat the cycle. Prevention is by spraying an
insecticide (such as Sevin) during adult
emergence, usually 1-2 sprays in August across most of the nation, and
harvesting the orchard to break the cycle. Wormy nuts are separated in
post harvest treatment (see below). These prevention techniques are very
effective unless there are old trees nearby that are not treated and
serve as a
reservoir for re-infection. For more information click HERE.
Ambrosia Beetles -
Ambrosia beetles were introduced into the Southeastern United States
from Asia. Although it is still primarily a southeastern pest, the
beetle is spreading into other areas.
They are rarely seen because
of their small size and the fact that they spend most of their lives
Most ambrosia beetles attack weakened, injured or
dying trees and shrubs. Some attach fresh-cut wood as well. A few
species attack apparently healthy trees and shrubs.
The first signs of damage by this beetle are fading or wilting of the
foliage on the terminals of infested twigs and branches. Close
inspection will reveal the presence of a tiny entry hole on the
underside of the affected branch.
The symptoms of an infestation and granulate ambrosia beetle damage are
unmistakable. As the female beetle tunnels, strands of boring dust,
which look like toothpicks, extend from the tree. Young trees infested
with the beetles usually die, but older trees may survive.
These beetles carry a fungus in their
mandibles with which they inoculate the trees they infest. The larvae
feeds on the fungus colonies, and it’s the fungus that is usually fatal
to the tree.
Ambrosia beetles sometimes attack healthy trees, but they
are especially attracted to trees suffering from stress. The insects
enter at sites with damaged bark. Most ambrosia beetle
prevention begins with reducing stress associated with trees.
Prevent stress as much as possible by watering the tree deeply during
dry spells and keeping it on a schedule of regular fertilization as
recommended for the species. Remove and destroy severely infested trees
to prevent the infestation from spreading.
The initial attack by this beetle occurs in the spring. The first
major adult is in mid-to late-February when temperatures exceed 65F.
As the female bores into the wood, a thin, toothpick-like strand of
sawdust is pushed from the tunnel. This may extend an inch or more from
the surface of the bark. While the females prefer to attack stems under
three inches in diameter they will attack stems up to eight inches in
diameter. The entry hole is about 2 mm in diameter. The tunnel goes
straight into the heartwood and then opens into a cave-like brood
gallery with one or two side galleries.
major emergence of females occurs in early spring. Host plants may be heavily attacked at this
time. If the host is vigorous enough, the beetles may be drowned or
forced out by heavy sap flow. If the host is weak or not producing large
amounts of sap, the attack will be successful.
Sprays that contain pyrethroids are effective at preventing ambrosia
beetles from entering a tree. Use the spray according to the label
instructions when you know that there are ambrosia beetles in the area.
You may have to spray as often as every two or three weeks
these treatments fail, and the trees die, all the research says to cut
down the dead tree and burn it. Chipping does not get rid of the
Homeowners with valuable trees on their property should consider consulting an arborist. These professionals can assess a tree to determine the extent of the infestation and help you decide whether to try to save the tree. They also have additional products at their disposal that may help prevent the spread of infestations.
Tubes are plastic translucent to specific sunlight tubes that act as
mini-greenhouses that protect and nurture growth of small seedlings
until the tree is big enough to survive on its own. Grow Tubes are
aides, especially in locations where there is less opportunity for
care, such as forest or wildlife plantings, or where there is predation
by deer, mice and other critters. Remove the tree stake as it is not
necessary when using grow tubes.
Please remove the tree stake as it is not necessary when using grow tubes.
Grow tubes help with weed control (by protecting the tree from spray and drift
from herbicide) and offer cold protection in late season frosts. They can
dramatically increase growth rates, and one-year seedling often grow out of the
top of a 4’ tube in 1 season! The Grow tube stays on until the tree
outgrows the tube, usually after 4-5 years.
DO NOT USE BLACK PLASTIC
DRAIN PIPE OR DRAIN PIPE AS PROTECTION – THEY WILL NOT WORK AND WILL DAMAGE THE YOUNG TREE!
We recommend Grow Tubes in all wildlife
If you don't use Grow
Tubes deer will browse the tops of the young trees. If pressure is high it may be necessary to
build cages to protect your investment. The best cages are made with 2 metal T-posts driven in the ground in a 3’
diameter circle around the tree, and then 5-6’ heavy wire fencing is wrapped
around the T-posts and secured with Zip-ties. The Grow Tubes stay on the trees inside the cages to protect against
small animals and all of the other benefits. In areas with bear or lots of deer, a cage may be the only way to allow
your trees to grow.
If you are planting an orchard
or a large food plot, it will be much less expensive to use a 3-wire Electric
Fence to keep deer out of your planting. Dr. James Kroll has determined the best system that provides 99%
exclusion. This is much cheaper and
easier to install than building dozens or hundreds of cages, and much less
expensive than 8’ metal fencing. You should still use Grow Tubes for the trees. For
more information on the best system to keep deer out of a large planting,
Complete planting instructions can be downloaded by clicking the links below
FALL PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS
SPRING PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS